The Chao Phraya river separates
Bangkok into two parts - the bustling, crowded side
where life is modern, frantic and noisy, and Bang
Kruay in Nonthaburi province, where life is gentle,
quiet and still very traditional.
Moments after dawn breaks, around
six, the fruit seller, with a call like that of the
Muslim muezzin, announces his wares; pineapple, watermelon,
mango, banana, whatever is in season. What initially
appear to be floating islands covered in colourful
bougainvillea are transformed into barge - bound nurseries
as they come closer: and around meal time, the floating
fast food boats come by, trailing mouthwatering aromas.
Later in the day, charcoal vendors paddle up from
either Bangkok Noi to the west or the river to the
east, from where they have picked up their wares from
larger barges. The price of all of these goods is
determined by bargaining and here the old women come
into their own. Year of experience pay off and goods
are exchanged for prices a city - dwelling Thai housewife
would call impossibly low.
In the steamy early months of the
year, before the monsoon breads, the klong provides
a communal swimming pool. Although it may not entice
all, most children love splashing the heat away in
the cool water. For many families the klong is a open
- air bathroom which all must use. Not even the family
dog can evade a wash from time to time.
At Loy Kratong, the festival held
on the full - moon night of the 11th lunar month,
the klong takes on a surreal, unworldly atmosphere
as families set afloat lighted candles affixed to
banana leaves, each one carrying a wish for the year
ahead.
Often, at night, the sound of a
traditional Thai orchestra and chanting monks floats
through the forests from temples hidden within. Sometimes,
during cremation ceremonies, fireworks are let off
in threes. The loudness of the bangs, the height of
the rockets,the intensity of colour in the display
are all said to help the height of the rockets, the
intensity of colour in the display are all said to
help the departing spirit's journey to the next life.
The temples are a focal point of
village life and the celebrations of life and death
provide a contact point which helps keep the social
fabric tightly woven. For how long the excesses of
modern city life can be kept out is anyone's guess.
But it's very apparent the people on the other side
of the Chao Phraya River are quite content with life
the way it is right now.
