MAT MI : IKAT
Ikat is a process of "wrapping to pattern"
the yarns before dyeing and weaving. The strings used for
wrapping the yarns have to resist the dye and thus a pattern
is placed in the yarns. For multi-colours, a process of
over-dyeing is done until the yarns are ready for weaving.
In warp ikat, the yarns for the warp are measured on a warp
stretcher to the exact length of one warp. In weft ikat,
the weft yarns are measured on a weft stretcher,but more
than one piece of textile can be woven on the warp prepared
for weft ikat. Thus longer lengths of the same design can
be wove.
It is likely that warp ikat is older than weft ikat,
but the history is far from conclusive. In peninsular and
island S.E. Asia, the change to weft ikat seemed to coincide
with the introcudtion of silk from China and India that
was traded into the region by the 6th century A.D. The weaving
of silk in weft ikat was easier than in warp ikat and the
demand for this luxury item brought about a change in techniques,
including the introduction of the frame loom. In mainland
S.E. Asia, the origins of silk are more likely to be indigenous
and thus the beginnings of weft ikat are not clear. Here
frame looms have been in existence for a long time, together
with the weaving combs and weft ikat equipment. Warp ikat
is only found in very simple designs among some of the T'ai
groups of Laos and Thailandwhile hilltribe groups still practice the technique
using backstrap looms. Compound ikat, which is the technique
of combining warp and weft ikat on the same piece, is found
in simplistic forms among the Khmor Sung of northeast
Thailand, the Red T'ai of northeast Laos, the Minangkabau
of West Sumatra, Indonesia ; but the best known areas for
compound ikat of excellence are Gujarat, India and Tenganan
in Bali.
Warp ikat is best suited to the use of cotton or other
plant fibres. Thus the colours used in theses textiles revolve
around those suitable for natural ayes on cotton. The most
popular colours are indigo and mengkudu red (Morinda citrifolia)
which are used on white or natural cotton yarns, tied to
resist the dye in the ikat technique. Weft ikats made in
silk tend to use yellow (turmeric), a dilute form of indigo
to make green, and a deep crimson red make from the lac
insect. Orange, green and purple are created by the overdye
process. Cottons made in weft ikat are mainly indigo and
white.
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