Continuous supplementary weft is the process of placing
a supplementary yarn into the web of plain weaving in
order to created a pattern that floats on the surface
of the weave. When the supplementary yarns need are matalic,
such as gold or silver, the term "brocade" is need. The
supplementary yarns are placed into the weaving by the
assistance of special heddles that raise the warp to a
certain pattern allowing the supplementary yarns to be
placed alternately to the plain weave yarns. Frior to
the invention of these special heddles, shed sticks were
placed in the warp to indicate the pattern for the supplementary
yarns, thus restricting the repeat of the pattern to one
repeat. The use of heddles allowed for endless production
of a design.
Supplementary warp was the predominant decorative form
in most areas prior to the period of Indian influence
but there is sufficient evidence to suggest that supplementary
weft existed as an indigenous technique. However, widespread
shift from warp to weft decoration occurred in the early
part of the first millennium A.D. and coincided with the
Indian influence in S.E. Asia. The later introduction
of silver and gold yarns brought about a significant change
in textiles woven for the aristocracy. In regional areas
silk
was placed in cotton fabrics as a luxury supplementary
weft decoration, bringing with it the palette of brighter
colours that are associated with silk