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 Home > About Thailand > Arts > Chok

CHOK : DISCONTINUOUS SUPPLEMENTARY WEFT




The process of dicontinuous supplementary weft is one whereby the supplementary yarns are placed in the web of the plain weave by means of picking out each warp yarn by hand and palling the supplementary weft yarn through them in small or specific areas only. Many clolurs can be placed into the design across the width of the fabric in this method which is sometime called "embroidery on the loom". In some areas the process is done with the back of the fabric facing upwards which allows for very neat finishing, while in other areas the fabric is woven with the right face up. Usually silk was used as the supplementary yarn on either a cotton or silk base.

Placing a gold or silver yarn into the weave in a discontinuous weft patern was first introduced with Persian and Indian fabrics that were traded to the courts of S.E. Asia. Popular design included medallions or stripes of gold or silver on luxurious silk fabrics. In provincial areas, yellow silk was often used to simulate gold.

The process of discontinuous supplementary weft is a slow and difficult one. The weaving of intricate designs was once considered an important skill for Asian women. Of all the techniques. this is one that is disappearing most quickly. The process can be speeded up with the help of heddles, but the final placing of the yarn still needs to be done by hand. Areas of Laos and Thailand still have weavers skilled in this technique. Embroidery is often found to have replaced the woven technique, as the process dose not require a loom and is more convenient. The Red T'ai and T'ai Lue groups in Laos still weave many ancient patterns in this technique. It can also be seen in the T'ai Yuan and the T'ai Phuan weavers in Thailand.


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