The process of dicontinuous supplementary
weft is one whereby the supplementary yarns are placed in
the web of the plain weave by means of picking out each
warp yarn by hand and palling the supplementary weft yarn
through them in small or specific areas only. Many clolurs
can be placed into the design across the width of the fabric
in this method which is sometime called "embroidery on the
loom". In some areas the process is done with the back of
the fabric facing upwards which allows for very neat finishing,
while in other areas the fabric is woven with the right
face up. Usually
silk
was used as the supplementary yarn on either a cotton or
silk base.
Placing a gold or silver yarn into the weave in a discontinuous
weft patern was first introduced with Persian and Indian
fabrics that were traded to the courts of S.E. Asia. Popular
design included medallions or stripes of gold or silver
on luxurious silk fabrics. In provincial areas, yellow
silk was often used to simulate gold.
The process of discontinuous supplementary weft is a
slow and difficult one. The weaving of intricate designs
was once considered an important skill for Asian women.
Of all the techniques. this is one that is disappearing
most quickly. The process can be speeded up with the help
of heddles, but the final placing of the yarn still needs
to be done by hand. Areas of Laos and Thailand still have
weavers skilled in this technique. Embroidery is often
found to have replaced the woven technique, as the process
dose not require a loom and is more convenient. The Red
T'ai and T'ai Lue groups in Laos still weave many ancient
patterns in this technique. It can also be seen in the
T'ai Yuan and the T'ai Phuan weavers in Thailand.